Eastman Chromspun - AY-1 - High-Quality Cellulose Acetate Fibers Brochure

Estron Acetate YarnChromspun Acetate YarnContentsIntroduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Product Features . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Eastman and Acetate: A Brief History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Acetate Yarn—How It Is Produced . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Yarn Properties . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Processing the Yarn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Preparing Loom Beams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Weaving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Knitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Dyeing and Finishing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Care Instructions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Eastman Acetate Yarns—The Products . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Estron Acetate Yarn—Chromspun Acetate Yarn 1IntroductionDesigners Rediscover Chromspunand Estron Acetate YarnsBoth fabric and garment designers are rediscoveringthe fresh look and rich aesthetics possible whenusing Eastman’s Chromspun and Estron acetateyarns. Eastman produces more than 50 differenttypes of Estron acetate yarn and Chromspuncolored acetate yarn. Chromspun acetate yarn is theproduct of choice for many high fashion fabrics andis available in a rainbow of colors.Estron and Chromspun acetate yarns have the same composition, except that colorants are added to the acetate solution prior to spinning toproduce Chromspun yarn. Solution-dyeing resultsin yarns and fabrics with colorfast, rich, brightcolors.Yarns of cellulose acetate, a cellulosic polymermade from wood pulp—a renewable resource—have excellent hand, drape, and luster.Major markets for Estron and Chromspun acetateyarns include:• Suit Linings• Party Dresses• Blouses• Choir and Graduation Robes• Bride and Bridesmaid Gowns• Drapery Linings• Casket Linings• Velvets for Apparel and Home Furnishings• Decorative and Floral Ribbons• Medical Tape• Women’s Knit ApparelCombination FabricsIn addition to 100% Estron and Chromspunacetate yarn fabrics, many mills combine Estronand Chromspun acetate yarn with yarns of otherfibers such as cotton, silk, wool, linen, nylon,spandex, polyester, and rayon—to enhance the bestcharacteristics of each fiber.For example, Estron acetate yarn that is wovenwith rayon simulates silk or linen. Estron acetateyarn woven or knit with nylon or polyester andspandex is used in high-fashion women’s wear toproduce a wrinkle-resistant fabric with excellentstretch and recovery for excellent form-fittingproperties.Weaving Estron acetate yarn with yarns ofhightwist sometimes in combination with yarns like polyester or rayon creates a crepe-effect fabric.The Estron acetate yarn contributes softness anddrapability and creates the crepe texture throughdifferential shrinkage of the acetate and companionyarn when the fabric is formed.Fabrics of Estron acetate yarn with various naturalor man-made fibers may also be cross-dyed(contrasting colors for each fiber to produce two-tone effects in a single dyeing operation).2Product FeaturesSince their commercial introduction in 1931,Eastman acetate yarns have continued to bring ahost of benefits to customers throughout the textileindustry. The list of product features is impressive.ComfortStudies have shown that wearers strongly prefer suitjackets lined with acetate over identical jacketslined with polyester. For more information visitwww.acetateworld.com.Rich ColorsBecause of its inherent whiteness, Estron acetateyarn can be dyed to produce apparel fabrics that are especially bright and vibrant in color.Chromspun yarn offers the added advantage ofexcellent color fastness.Luxurious Hand and DrapeThe fabric designer can count on Eastman acetateyarn for producing fabrics that are soft and supple. CrispnessFabrics such as taffetas call for a fresh, crisp look.Because of their inherent physical properties, Estronand Chromspun yarns retain their crispness even indamp weather. Low swelling and rapid drying accountfor good stability to shrinkage and stretch when wet.Pleats and CreasesBecause Eastman acetate yarns are thermoplastic,their shape can be altered by the application of heatand pressure. As a result, fabrics of Estron andChromspun yarns can be readily pleated or creased.This feature also makes possible surface patterns,such as a moirè.TailorabilityFabrics containing Eastman acetate yarn are easy tocut, sew, and handle.Moth ResistanceMoth larvae do not attack Eastman acetate yarns.Estron and Chromspun yarns are resistant tomildew and perspiration.Eastman and Acetate: A Brief HistoryEastman’s expertise with acetate dates back to 1909with the production of cellulose acetate for use as aphotographic film base. During World War I, weprovided cellulose acetate to the United Statesarmed forces for coating airplane wings. Since thattime, Eastman continues to supply the textileindustry with quality products and services:• 1931—Tennessee Eastman Corporation beginslarge-scale production of cellulose acetateyarn.• 1936—Eastman introduces TECA, the firstacetate staple fiber.• 1937—Tennessee Eastman Corporation beginsproduction of acetate dyestuffs.• 1952—Eastman begins production of Chromspunyarn, the first solution-dyed acetate yarn.Eastman begins production of acetate towfor cigarette filters.• 1967—Eastman begins acetate tow production inEngland.• 1983—Tennessee Eastman Company begins operation of the only commercial plant inthe United States for making industrialchemicals from coal. This project has beenacclaimed as one of the best technologicalachievements of modern times.• 1993—Eastman Chemical Company wins the coveted Malcolm Baldrige Award for all-around excellence.• 1994—Eastman Chemical Company becomesindependent of Eastman Kodak Company.• 1997—Eastman converts 100% to tube spinningand installs robotic packing of acetateyarns. Eastman joins www.acetateworld.com(GAMA).• 2000—Eastman joins the Global AcetateManufacturers Association (GAMA). Seewww.acetateworld.com for more detailson this organization and other informationabout acetate yarn.• 2001–2004—Eastman continues with significantinvestments in acetate yarn manufacturing.• 2005—Eastman becomes the sole acetate yarnproducer in North America and the onlyglobal acetate yarn producer vertical inacetate flake manufacturing.Estron Acetate Yarn—Chromspun Acetate Yarn 34Acetate Yarn—How It Is ProducedYarn PropertiesAcetate yarn is made from cellulose, a renewableresource obtained from cotton linters and woodpulp.CompositionThe cellulose, purchased in bleached form, istreated with a mixture of acids and a catalyst toproduce cellulose triacetate. Further dilution andprecipitation steps result in a solid white flakecalled cellulose acetate.SpinningThe flake is subsequently dissolved in acetone,forming a clear viscous solution. It is at this stagethat coloring agents can be added in the productionof Chromspun acetate yarn. This solution is thenextruded through spinnerettes. As the fine liquidstreams pass through a curing chamber, warm airevaporates the acetone resulting in solid celluloseacetate filaments. The filaments are then drawntogether into a continuous filament yarn at thebottom of the chamber and wound onto tubes.The physical properties of acetate are unique,especially when compared to those of othermanmade fibers such as polyester and nylon. Themolecular structure of acetate, for example, isamorphous, as opposed to a crystalline structurefor polyester and nylon. Acetate is thermoplasticand has good moisture regain properties. Table 1shows typical physical properties for Eastmanacetate yarn.Table 1Typicala Physical Properties of Eastman Acetate YarnsProperty Reference ValueBreaking tenacity (standard), g/d ASTM D2256 1.2–1.5Breaking tenacity (wet), g/d ASTM D2256 0.8–1.2Specific gravity ASTM D792 1.32Commercial moisture regain, % ASTM D1909 6.5%Sticking point, °C (°F) Observation 177–191 (350–375)Softening point, °C (°F) Observation 204–229 (400–445)Melting point, °C (°F) Observation 260 (500)Burning characteristics Observation Burns relatively slowlyElongation ASTM D2256–80 22–25%aValues given are typical and should not be considered as specification values. Eastman makes no claim that anyparticular shipment will conform exactly to these values. Estron Acetate Yarn—Chromspun Acetate Yarn 5Processing the YarnPreparing Loom BeamsAppropriate processing conditions and techniquesmust be used to take advantage of the desirablequalities of Eastman acetate yarns. This sectiondiscusses those techniques that have been shown byexperience to work well with Estron andChromspun yarns.• Eastman acetate yarns should not be processed attemperatures above 88°C (190°F).• If a fabric containing Eastman acetate yarn is tobe heat-set, it should first be dried.BeamingWhile beaming may be accomplished on sectional(silk) equipment, the use of cotton-system beamingis preferred.Beaming ConditionsCondition the yarn at 26° ± 1°C (78° ± 2°F) and66° ± 2% relative humidity for at least 24 hoursprior to beaming and maintain similar conditions in the beaming area.Beaming Speeds and TensionsBeaming speeds will vary with a number ofequipment factors and should be consistent with theequipment manufacturer’s recommendations. Keepyarn tensions to a minimum; usually not to exceed0.10 to 0.15 grams/denier. It is especially importantthat yarn tensions be uniform across the warpsheet, i.e. uniform end to end. Keep yarn contactpoints to a minimum, and contact surfaces cleanand smooth. The Whorl disc and other tensioncontrol systems can be used. Surface contact pointsshould be either satin-finish chrome or matte-finishceramic. High polish chrome surfaces should beavoided.Fabric AppearanceTo avoid potential variation in surface appearance,horizontal creeling is suggested. Horizontal creelingwill result in better distribution of ends on the loombeam.It is necessary to apply a size formulation to Eastmanacetate yarns to prevent broken filaments during theweaving process. It is important to select the rightcombination of slasher equipment, size, and slashingprocedure to ensure satisfactory results. In addition,it is important to carefully coordinate warp moistureand weave room conditions. Failure to do so canresult in poor quality warps and defective fabrics.Slasher TypesThere are a number of slasher types that can beused successfully to size acetate yarn. Bothconventional and single end slashers are widely used.Stretch LevelThe stretch level used is very critical and should beas low as possible. Excessive stretching reduces theelongation of the yarn, which can result in warpstreaks after dyeing. Ideal stretch conditions shouldbe between 4% and 6% for single-end and 6% and8% for conventional slashers. Care should be takenduring leasing to ensure that filaments are notbroken during hard size breaks at the separator rods.Single-end slashers tend to provide better protectionfor the yarn and create less broken filaments.Size SelectionSize selection is critical to achieving optimumweaving efficiency, fabric quality, and cost. Factorsthat affect the size selection include:• Ease of application• Ease of removal• Compatibility with yarn lubricants• Cleanliness on looms6The choice of slashing formulation will also dependon slashing and weaving equipment used, fabricconstruction, and mill differences. Generallyspeaking, a typical size add-on would be about4.0% by weight. Before selecting a size, the sizesupplier should be consulted regarding proper application. WeavingToday, most weaving is done on air jet, water jet, orrapier looms. The entanglement level on yarns ofEstron and Chromspun is designed to be highenough to get good weaving efficiencies, but lowenough to avoid a flashy fabric appearance.Eastman produces several yarn products thatperform well on these type looms in both warp andfilling.Yarn TypesAs air-jet weaving machine sophistication andspeeds increase, an “air friendly” filling yarn ispreferred. Air friendly refers to a yarn that enablesthe loom to use less air and thus avoid damagingthe yarn during pick insertion. Pick timing controlsare essential to maintain appropriate air pressure.The use of highly polished, fully profiled reeds isrecommended, along with regular reed maintenance and cleaning.Yarn ConditioningCondition acetate yarns to weave room temperatureand humidity prior to using. Conditioning isespecially important for filling yarns. Ideal weaveroom conditions are 21°–27°C (70°–80°F) and70% relative humidity.Estron and Chromspun acetate warp yarns performsatisfactorily on high-speed, air-jet weavingmachines. Proper slashing procedures and warptension are important.Air-Jet WeavingTFAJ yarns are designed for use as filling on air-jetmachines. Excessive air pressure should be avoidedto prevent damage to the yarn. For best all aroundperformance, pick timing with automatic aircontrol is recommended. Reeds should be fullyprofiled, highly polished, and regularly maintained.Water Jet and Rapier Weaving MachinesEastman acetate warp and filling yarns are alsosuitable for use on water-jet weaving machines. Theprocedure for slashing water-jet warps is the sameas those for dry-loom warps, except for the sizeformulation used. The size used for slashing water-jet warps must be insoluble in water. Care must betaken to balance loom beam moisture with weaveroom temperature and humidity. Otherwise, warp-related problems such as blistering and sticking maybe encountered. Estron Acetate Yarn—Chromspun Acetate Yarn 7KnittingEastman acetate yarns are useful for both warp andcircular knitting applications. Excessively hightensions should be avoided to prevent damaging theyarn and breaking filaments. The use of a positivefeed machine is necessary, and all yarn contactpoints on the machine must be regularly checkedfor wear. It is especially important that yarn tensionsbe uniform, end-to-end, and package-to-package.Circular KnittingStandard circular knitting procedures yield goodresults with both Estron and Chromspun acetateyarns. Chromspun and Estron HTFK yarns arerecommended for circular knitting.Warp KnittingStandard warp knitting techniques may be used toproduce fabric of excellent quality. Some commonconstructions can be produced using acetate yarnson both bars or combinations of acetate on the topbar and other yarns on the bottom bar. All metalcontact points must be smooth to keep brokenfilaments to a minimum.Dyeing and FinishingFor best results, fabrics woven of 100% Estronacetate should be dyed in an open-width jig oratmospheric beam dyeing machine to help minimizethe formation of creases and crack marks. Fabricblends made with Estron acetate warp yarn andspun rayon filling can be dyed in open becks andatmospheric-jet dyeing machines. When dyeingblends, care should be taken not to overload thebecks or jets and to maintain a bath ratio of 20:1 to30:1. Overloading can result in severe crack marksthat cannot be removed on the tenter frame duringdrying. Level dyeings are best achieved withdisperse dyes that have similar energy levels. Theseare dyes that exhaust at similar rates.Scouring and Desizing• Rinse in cold water to remove any tints thatmight be present.• Before dyeing, thoroughly remove any warp sizeto avoid warp streaks in the finished fabric.• Set bath temperature at 38°C (100°F). Add anionicdetergent and soda ash to pH 8.5–9.0.• Raise temperature to 71°–82°C (160°–180°F).Hold 30 to 60 minutes.• Cool to 60°C (140°F). Overflow rinse 10 minutes,then drain.• Repeat rinse at 49°C (120°F).• Drain and refill for dyeing.Anionic detergents are preferred to nonionicdetergents in scouring because it is more difficult toremove nonionic detergents from fabric. Residualnonionic detergent left on the fabric will interferewith the dye dispersion. This is especially importantin jig dyeing where the efficiency of rinsing is notgood. Avoid using caustic, strong alkalis or cationicdetergents since these may impair removal of the size. Also, if acetate is exposed to pH levels greaterthan 9.0, saponification will occur, converting theacetate to regenerated cellulose. This will adverselyaffect the dyeing process. A simple test to seewhether saponification has occurred is to exposethe desized but undyed fabric to direct dyes.DyeingCellulose acetate should always be dyed withdisperse dyes. In jig dyeing, lower energy dyes arepreferred over higher energy dyes. Basic dyes (alsoknown as cationic dyes) may yield brighter shades,but may also dye unevenly. Basic dyes have noaffinity for acetate, and any dye that only stains afiber will tend to go on non-uniformly. In addition,basic dyes have a good affinity for acrylic, which ispresent in many of the sizes used on acetate. If thesize is not completely removed, the basic dye willtend to dye the acrylic size and cause warp streaks. 8Because the dyeability of acetate with basic dyescannot be controlled, Eastman will not assume anyresponsibility for dyeing results with this class ofdyes. Use of cationic or basic dyes can be detected.Fabrics containing 100% Estron acetate and blendsof acetate with spun rayon can be dyed as follows:• Add the following auxiliaries to a fresh bath at27°C (80°F):0.33 g/l sequestrant, or Calgon water softener*0.08 g/l monosodium phosphate*0.07 g/l anionic detergentNote: Additional auxiliaries will be needed depending onthe type of dye used for the rayon.• Adjust pH to 6.5–7.0.• Add disperse dyes that have been pasted in warmwater with a small amount of anionic detergentand dispersed in water at 71°C (160°F).Note: Rayon dyes should be added and mixed accordingto the manufacturer’s instructions.• Raise temperature slowly to 82°–88°C(180°–190°F).• Dye for 1 hour at 82°–88°C (180°–190°F).Caution: Dyeing at temperatures above 88°C (190°F) mayresult in delustering and/or fabric damage.• Drop bath.• Rinse well.*Regional regulations may limit the use of phosphates dueto foaming potential in plant water affluent released tostreams.Disperse Dye Selection for Use With AcetateAcetate disperse dye selection should be based ontwo main criteria:1. Dyes that exhaust well together2. ColorfastnessExhaustion CharacteristicsDisperse dyes exhaust well on acetate fiber but canexhaust at a different rate. This can affect uniformshade in open width dyeing with jig and beamdyeing. Side to center or end to end shading can beproblems. Proper batching helps in jig and beamdyeing. The use of closed jigs can also helpminimize these problems. Proper dye selection anddyeing temperature are equally importantconsiderations. For smooth, level dyeings, dyes thathave relatively similar exhaustion curves producegood results. Dyes that have good exhaustion atlower temperatures can be described as low energydyes. Dyes that require higher temperatures toachieve significant exhaustion are classed as higherenergy dyes. Ideally dyes should be selected fromthe same or at least consecutive energy group forsimilar dye strike. When dyes are selected fromdifferent groups it is best to choose a dyeingtemperature that is suitable for the higher energydye so that both dyes will be striking at the sametime. A dyeing temperature that is too low resultsin a slow dye strike where inadequate exhaustionwill occur, but a dyeing temperature too high isequally a problem where unlevelness results from avery quick dye strike.Four energy levels* were established for theseselected acetate disperse dyes based on theirexhaustion curves:Low Energy High EnergyC.I. Disperse Yellow 34 C.I. Disperse Orange 37C.I. Disperse Yellow 3 C.I. Disperse Red 88C.I. Disperse Orange 58 C.I. Disperse Red 117C.I. Disperse Red 30 C.I. Disperse Blue 60C.I. Disperse Blue 3Other Dyes WithLow/Medium Energy General Application:C.I. Disperse Yellow 86 C.I. Disperse Orange 25C.I. Disperse Red 137 C.I. Disperse Orange 59C.I. Disperse Brown 22 C.I. Disperse Red 78C.I. Disperse Blue 102 Disperse Black TG (Mixture)Medium EnergyC.I. Disperse Yellow 42C.I. Disperse Red 136C.I. Disperse Red 35C.I. Disperse Red 338C.I. Disperse Blue 27C.I. Disperse Blue 7*These dyes are grouped relative to dyeing acetate andshould not be confused with their affinity for other fiberssuch as polyester. Estron Acetate Yarn—Chromspun Acetate Yarn 9Blacks:Black shades on acetate can be achieved in severalways depending on depth, richness, andcolorfastness. Three methods are suggested withcomments:1. Chromspun Black—Best depth and colorfastnessfrom producer colored acetate2. Developed Blacks—Good depth, wet fastnesssatisfactory if applied correctly3. Disperse Black Mixtures—Adequate black forsome end uses, check wet fastnessColorfastnessCrock fastness, wash fastness, gas fastness, andthermal stability are some of the properties thatmust meet the end use requirements of a garmentmanufacturer. Disperse dyes on acetate can besubject to gas fading due to oxides of nitrogenusually from gas heating. Selected disperse dyeswith good gas fastness have resistance to shadechange under exposure conditions. Dyes such asDisperse Blue 3 will fade to a reddish blue. Thistype of dye if used should include a gas fadinginhibitor which can be exhausted onto the fibersimilarly to a disperse dye. Users are encouraged to check the fastness after finishing insuring thatproduct specifications are met.Chromspun yarns have outstanding crockingfastness. In certain applications, crock testing willindicate color transfer. This is usually due toabrasion of filament lobes that can be easilyremedied by application of a hand softener infinishing.Package DyeingAcetate filament yarns are very difficult to packagedye since the yarns tend to slough off the package.The package integrity can be improved by windingonly small packages less than one pound with afirm pineapple shaped wind. Covering the packagewith a cotton sock can slightly reduce the tendencyto slough. Set the flow cycle to inside-out only andkeep the pump running throughout the dye cyclewithout dropping the bath until ready to unload.Overflow wash for rinsing. Extended dye cycles foradds or repair increase the potential for problems.As an excellent alternative to package dyeing,Eastman Chromspun yarns are producer colored,offer excellent fastness for most shades and areavailable in a variety of colors. Chromspun yarnsare ready to use and avoid all of the timeconsuming, special handling problems fromsloughing, dye channeling, unlevelness, and loss ofdamaged yarn that can occur in package dyeing.Improving WhitenessEstron acetate whiteness meets expectations formost applications. For extreme whiteness, selectedoptical brighteners can be applied similarly toexhaust dyeing disperse dye to acetate from anaqueous medium. Lightfastness should be tested todetermine if adequate for the end use. Dull yarnsare sometimes perceived as being whiter than brightyarns.For end uses requiring a higher level of whiteness,Estron dull yarns may be employed.Drying of Dyed FabricIn many instances, excess moisture is removed fromdyed fabrics by running open width fabrics over awater extraction suction slot. This makes drying of fabrics more economical. Acetate fabrics arerelatively easy to dry. Lining fabrics are generallydried by passing over metal cylinders that are steamheated to 121°–149°C (250°–300°F). Some fabricconstructions can be dried in loop dryers or tenterframes at 93°–135°C (200°–275°F). With eithermethod, tension in the length and width directionsmust be kept to a minimum to not distort thefabric. Excessive drying temperatures will reducethe naturally soft hand of acetate fabrics.Eastman Chemical CompanyCorporate HeadquartersP.O. Box 431Kingsport, TN 37662-5280 U.S.A.Telephone: U.S.A. and Canada: 800.EASTMAN (800.327.8626)Other Locations: (1) 423.229.2000Fax: (1) 423.229.1193www.eastman.comMaterial Safety Data Sheets providing safetyprecautions, that should be observed when handling and storing Eastman products, areavailable online or by request. You should obtain and review the available material safety information before handling any of these products. If any materials mentioned are notEastman products, appropriate industrial hygieneand other safety precautions recommended bytheir manufacturers should be observed.Neither Eastman Chemical Company nor itsmarketing affiliates shall be responsible for the use of this information, or of any product,method or apparatus mentioned, and you mustmake your own determination of its suitabilityand completeness for your own use, for the protection of the environment and for the healthand safety of your employees and purchasers of your products. NO WARRANTY IS MADE OFTHE MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS OF ANY PRODUCT, AND NOTHING HEREIN WAIVES ANYOF THE SELLER’S CONDITIONS OF SALE.Eastman, Estron, and Chromspun are trademarks of Eastman Chemical Company.© Eastman Chemical Company, 2006.Publication AY-1ASeptember 2006Printed in U.S.A.Eastman Acetate Yarns—The ProductsThrough the years, Eastman has maintained aproduct mix tailored to the changing needs of itscustomer base. The result—a variety of product andpackage options available to the fabric designer.Estron and Chromspun acetate yarns are availablein various deniers, lusters, and colors. Both yarnsare available in deniers from 75 to 300. Typicaldeniers include 75, 100, 120, 150, and 300. Theyarns are produced in the following types:TFAJ —Air jet fillingTFWJ —Water jet fillingHTFK—Circular knittingHTF—Warp knitting, weaving warp rapier fillingChromspun acetate yarn is available in a wide rangeof colors. Please contact your local Eastman SalesRepresentative for a Chromspun Color Selector.Care InstructionsMany fabrics and garments containing acetate arenot considered washable due to the type garmentinvolved, such as party dresses and linings for suits. However, other garment and fabrics, knitfabrics in particular, are considered by many to behand or delicate cycle washable. Introduction Product Features Eastman and Acetate: A Brief History Acetate Yarn - How It Is Produced Yarn Properties Processing the Yarn Preparing Loom Beams Weaving Knitting Dyeing and Finishing Care Instructions EASTMAN Acetate Yarns - The Products